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Henna:
Lawsonia Inermis

It has been used since ancient Egyptian period as a hair and body dye as beauty articles used by Queens and her consorts. Persian Henna or Lawsonia inermis, a bushy, flowering tree, commonly found in Australia, Asia and along the Mediterranean coasts of Africa.

Most revered plant, as per Ethnopharmacological relevance, paste made from the leaves of Henna plant has been used since the Bronze Age to dye skin, hairs, and fingernails especially at the times of festivals. In recent times henna paste has been used for body art paintings and designs in western countries. Henna, Hina, Mehndi, Marudaani, Egyptian Privet, Inai, Hinai, notionally is known as a black dye prepared from the dried and powdered leaves of the henna tree. It is traditionally used in Islamic and Hindu cultures as a hair colouring and as a dye for decorating the nails or making temporary skin tattoos. Western world finds it more as the temporary body art of mehndi or "henna tattoo" resulting from the staining of the skin using dyes from the henna plant.

Despite such widespread use in dyeing and body art painting, Henna extracts and constituents possess numerous biological activities including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and anticancer bioactivities. An important plant with significant in vitro and in vivo biological activities.

Active colouring and biologically active principal compound of Henna is Lawsone (2- hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone) which has served as a starting building block for synthesizing large number of therapeutically useful compounds including Atovaquone, Lapachol and Di-Chloroalkyl. Some of lawsones have shown to possess potent anticancer activities and is still largely unexplored.

Natural chemical constituents of Lawsonia Inermis; contains whole lot of complex and simple derivable phenolic, flavonoids, saponins, proteins, tri-terpenoids, polyphenols, quinones, tannins, resins, alkaloids, and others with exclusive ability of 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, i.e., lawsone. Our first work has been only and namely on taking amber colouring off structure and now majorly on extractions* leading to derivatives using its saponins+ quinones+ tannins with alkaloids via SAR (Structure Activity Relationships) to try maximizing activity and minimize toxicity.

*Extraction procedures used and under trial by our team on continual improvement basis include infusion, percolation, Soxhlet extraction, superficial extraction, maceration, digestion, decoction, ultrasound-assisted, and microwave-assisted extractions.

We have examined use base and researched the chemistry and biological activities of Lawsone along with its analogues and metal complexes. Mainly ability of Lawsone to undergo the redox cycling and chelation of trace metal ions are partially responsible for most of its biological activities. The responsible pigment of Henna, amber, red colour is the 1,4-naphthoquinone Lawsone, constituting 1–2% of the leaves, which is achieved after application on Skin. More than 70 phenolic compounds have been isolated from various parts of the plants under phytochemistry actions. It is naphthoquinones, which include the dyeing principle lawsone, have been linked to the pharmacological activities. The terpene, β-ionone is largely responsible for the pungent odour of the essential oil isolated from the flowers. In addition to other volatile terpenes, some non-volatile terpenoids, a single sterol, two alkaloids and two dioxin derivatives have also been isolated from the plant.

Our strength so far has been using alkaloids to meet with ph.7.0 to 8.0 as in Hair Colour needs than pure henna ph. Of 5.5 which creates cuticle shield needing high curing time of natural lawsone. Immense help of our Henna cousins of Cassia family offering biosimilar as polyphenols rich muddied in quinones as straight plant derivatives**. The optimum pH level thus derived helps to reduce cuticle damage.

**Plant-derived compounds refer to ingredients that originate from plants or flowers botany. As in pharmaceutical domain, plant-derived chemicals, extracts, and their derivatives are bioactive compounds with medicinal activity. After a lead compound is identified, further closely related compounds are searched with Structure-Activity Relationship (SAR). Consequently, derivatives are developed without toxicity by retaining its regular activity.

It is these analogues of Lawsone rich in other beneficial biological properties such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antitubercular and antimalarial, we have employed in our patents. Few incidents of adverse reactions following application to the skin have been reported, but these are mainly confined to cases involving individuals with glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase deficiency and reactions to adulterants added to henna products.

Henna as a medicinal plant other than hair dye use is illegal in the USA. It is not approved for direct application to the skin, as in the body-decorating process known as hand or body mehndi. It is the unapproved use of colour additive classified as unadulterated lead our research on why by USDA. We are still researching on roles of specific compounds and their synergies via comprehensively investigations and use cases. Our potent henna extracts formulated have been recently deployed regularly to function as antimicrobials for skin, hair care, hair colour, and other environmental biotechnological uses.